*I recommend reading through these instructions first and then going through step by step during application for best results.
1. Apply a good makeup primer to your freshly cleansed skin. We like Smashbox Prime Time. This step is not entirely necessary but does increase the staying power of your makeup.
2. White Face: with a damp makeup brush (use a large to medium flat brush. A foundation brush will work. For a cheaper alternative you can certainly use any soft painting brushes from Michaels Craft Stores) create a paste in the top of your jar lid with your White Out , apply to the portion of your face you are going to skull out. Wait until your white is completely dry to add your black.
3. Cheek Bones: to make it easier or if you are a beginner - suck in your cheeks to reveal your cheek bones, with a dry brush first apply your Black Out to the hollows and trace a light line directly below your cheek bones. Use the photos above for reference guides on the placement but please note every face is different, don't be afraid to follow your natural contour.
4. Lips: apply a cream first! We applied a nude lipstick - this will allow the makeup (which will dry into a powder, to move with your lips and not flake off while you talk, eat, etc.) with a very thin damp brush (I used a liner brush) and your Black Out draw vertical lines along your lip line and past your lips to your cheeks, have them fade into the black of your cheeks. Connect the tops with slight arches. The lines will look harsh at first, but we aren't done!
5. Nose: using the handle side of a brush you are not using (like you would a ruler to draw a straight line), and the same thin brush you used for the lines on your lips - draw a vertical line up the bridge of your nose, follow the natural arch of your nostril and then connect the two. Fill in with the Black Out. *Do not blend the nose, I've tried it both ways and it seems to look better unblended with crisp lines.
6. Blending: with a dry brush and your Black Out, trace a line entirely around the white and blend it slightly to avoid a harsh line, pay special attention to your hair line blending forward in to the white to create a grey shadow and a more realistic effect. Now go back to your cheeks, at the top of your cheek bones blend the line downward into your hallows, blend the harsh lines into the white slightly to create your grey shadowing. Your brush will now have the black on it, go under your lips and around the teeth you've created blending downward slightly. Use the left over black on your brush to follow your vertical teeth lines upward toward your nose, and downward toward your chin to create a light grey shadow.
7. Eyes: If you choose to black out your eyes, line your eyes with your Black Out liner, follow right under your eye where your bones naturally end toward your eye with a dry brush (you do now want this line to be harsh), follow your eye up to your brow and continue to follow your brow with the black liner and a dry brush. Connect your brow to the outter corner of your eye and blend under your lash line. Fill completely with a damp brush and your Black Out.
*8. Additional Shadowing: add a light shadow to your temple. Raise your eyebrows and follow the raised skin with your brush to create a light shadow over your brow. Make sure you have blended out the black surrounding the white on your face down your neck and into your hairline.
Brush Examples:
Face / White Out Detail Blending / Black Out